Best locking carabiner for grigri reddit. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2.
- Best locking carabiner for grigri reddit. My partners laugh at me but I thrust my hips in their direction and haul on the rope to make the grigri lock. 2 - Clip an ascender to the rope above the Grigri. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. See full list on climbernews. Aug 31, 2021 · We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Seriously, there's no need to overthink this. I posted a kind message simply explaining that in the interest of safety, it's usually best practice to use a locking biner to attach a belay device to your harness. In the video you linked carabiners were still breaking at over 1000 lbf in absolutely horrible leaver or nose hook configurations. Aggregated reviews for carabiners are generally meaningless, especially when for an established brand like Black Diamond. In order to open the gate, you must squeeze two lever arms, one on each side of the gate, which releases the magnetic grip with the nose. What's my best setup for this purpose? Most I get is that the carabiners have to be rated at least 16kn right? but it has to have a osha cert on it? or could it be a REI carabiner. This pic from the instruction manual shows my normal setup (left) and my accidental setup (right). Oct 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond Gridlock carabiner is designed to minimize cross loading. The most ironic part is, I now have a keeper cord for my GriGri. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. The grigri is over hyped. I was surprised at how much smoother my rappels and guide-mode belays got when I stopped using my I-beam carabiners and started using a round stock carabiner. In neither of these methods do you need to swap the direction of your hand on the brake rope so I don't really understand your trouble or how you must be holding the grigri Oct 12, 2023 · However, we’ve seen many folks use them for their chalk bag. 1) Petzl AM'D or 2) Petzl WILLIAM (The third carabiner with the little green ball!) I personally own the Freino and the Petzl AM'D. Also, check out the Quad anchor, which seems to be the new standard. I-beam carabiners are good for other random uses - I like the BD hotforge lockers and Metolius round stock lockers. If you are getting high off the ground or far from the I prefer 2 progress capture devices on one strand. Here are our in-depth reviews. I Own 3. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. I have used the am’d carabiners for a quad/magic x anchor but generally I hate using auto locking carabiners for other anchor setups, they can really suck if you’re pumped. Step 3: The leader takes the brake strand from the GriGri, and places this rope in a second locking carabiner creating a second masterpoint on the anchor. Feb 7, 2019 · 1 - Feed the rope through your Grigri, and attach the Grigri to your belay loop with a large locking carabiner, just like you would for belaying. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Best lanyard is Petzl Connect Adjust, then there’s the Metolius PAS. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. And one that isn’t the size of my face. This is a double action locker (twist and push). It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. I use the plume primarely for acenders since i like to use locking biners in my setup. You can use a locker draw to keep the lower one out of the way. Regular oval 3-way locking carabiners tend to be uncomfortable for my hand size, end with a lot of annoying fiddling when using lanyards up in the tree etc. I think it lets you climb more continuously. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. I can't find a spec on the strength of the setup on the right Dec 4, 2020 · An incredibly awesome in-depth beginner's guide to rock climbing carabiners. The home of Climbing on reddit. As far as lockers go, get a pair of “round-stock” and a pair of “I-beam” locking carabiners. Old heads will say use a regular sling or Clove hitch with the rope. Pretty proud of myself for thinking this one up. The clepsydra is an super belay biner, super convinient to use on a ATC w. The best-selling Grigri, now optimized for ropes larger than 8. What is the Best Carabiner to use with a GRIGRI? This chart shows a few of the best options and the reasons behind the choices. May 4, 2021 · Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. Delap often uses the GriGri in a rappelling environment, but he notes that doing so wears your ropes I'm having trouble finding an answer to this question. Looks like her grandparents took her climbing. Asking if anyone has any recommendations for a carabiner for my keychain - specifically, one that's durable and can easily be attached/unattached (I have a rape whistle and some other important goodies on my keychain so I'd need to unclip it quickly, but I'd still like to hook my keychain to my bag or anything else as necessary). The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. . What locking carabiners Is everyone using. I use sm’d carabiners primarily for my tether setup and for my 3rd hand when rappelling. I feel like the search for a good locking carabiner that's actually light, durable, and doesn't freeze is almost a hopeless endeavor. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. A Keylock Nose reduces the chances of rope snagging considerably Here is a good video highlighting the two common methods of belay with a grigri. And yes we are scared of falling. Here are our in-depth reviews! The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. locking carabiner : edelrid bulletproof are nice for first draw and top rope. Harness has to be a full body harness as body belts are banned as of 1998. 96K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. What brand in particular. The Petzl AM'D comes in use with a BD ATC XP Tube or the Mammut SMART (which is an exellent device!). Carabiner Safety The main reason to use a special carabiner for your belay device is to avoid cross-loading. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. Grigri. We cover the options to help find the right one for you. 9mm. While the ATC easily accommodates two rope strands for belays, the GriGri requires a bit more finesse to handle such an environment. Aug 15, 2019 · The DMM Rhino is our favorite carabiner to belay with, especially when belaying with an active assisted braking device such as a Petzl GriGri or Trango Best locking carabiners for small hands? Hi everyone, pretty new to climbing and am looking for suggestions on small lockable carabiners. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? Jan 8, 2019 · A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness's belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. Really positive triple action auto lock, little bump on the spine to keep the grigri from sliding around and crossloading, wire gate keeper for belay loop end. More important considerations are size and shape, radius of the basket, how it handles rope, all kinds I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle to take on and off your harness, which you will be doing a lot with a tube device. In a very rare sequence of events you can undo a screw/locking carabiner and it’s less safe. What are you guys using? I'm looking for anything slightly lighter to replace my BD gear. a Mega, a Plume and a Clepsydra. They do look like they work great for keys though. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Choosing a Belay Device. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Petzl attach as master point in anchors, Simond as cheap D screwgates. Weight is a factor. Petzl now strongly recommends the second "new" method, so if you're learning new techniques go for this one rather than the"classic" method. 4 days ago · Rappellers and climbers must have rappelling carabiners in their gear for rappelling. Now that im looking more closely, it looks like there are no uiaa markings on the carabiners ive seen listed in amazon. Single action means no lock (just push). HMS carabiners are for belay devices where the carabiner makes contact with the rope, grigri isn't one of those. When using this carabiner with a Grigri, Black Diamond recommends that you clip the wide part of the carabiner to your harness, and the narrow end to the belay device: opposite the normal way you would use a carabiner. See how well it fits in your hand and how easy the gate is to open. Once the belay device is correctly fed with the rope and clipped to the harness, the belayer must secure and double Jan 8, 2019 · The Black Diamond Rocklock Screwgate is BD's largest locking carabiner, designed with belaying and rappelling in mind. I use the Freino with my Petzl GriGri2 and Trango Cinch. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Jan 28, 2023 · Another belaying carabiner, the Black Diamond RockLock Twistlock has everything you need to support yourself and your fellow climbers. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Oct 25, 2023 · Some people have noted for example that the Edelrid Bulletproof carabiner can impair the locking feature of the Giga Jul, and that the GriGri is susceptible to crossloading using HMS carabiners. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs Jan 8, 2019 · However, a second locking carabiner clipped to a higher anchor piece could also be used for less money, and in general we prefer to use an auto-locking ATC such as the Petzl Reverso or ATC Guide to belay up a seconding climber, as they are more secure for this use (and a lot lighter and less clunky to carry up) than a GriGri. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. it does the job, and is fast for clipping and unclipping from my harness. So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. If anyone uses an auto-locking device other than the gri-gri, can you talk about your experience with it and its pros and cons? Are there devices that have a guide mode for multi-pitching that also lock off well on lead? The sm’d can be used most instances you want a locker (though I probably wouldn’t use one with my atc to belay). I like the ease of use BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. It saves time and is safer imo. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. I use a Black Diamond Gridlock screwgate carabiner as my belay biner. 1. Petzl Freino Twist-Lock Carabiners The first product is a Petzl carabiner for GriGri that any climber can use. However, once you're high off the ground, you don't really want to take any chances with it staying closed. Trad/Alpine Climber: Most likely all your non-locking carabiners, including your alpine draws and racking carabiners, will be offset D’s to keep weight down. You made an excellent choice! Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. e. A couple of times I have almost set up improperly with my belay loop and ATC in the same section of the biner. I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. , double action) carabiners are the standard for belay devices and most other critical single point connections. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. com BALL-LOCK auto-locking helps reduce the risk of forgetting to lock the carabiner, and offers the security of triple action locking. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. The downside of screwgate carabiners: The gate can sometimes accidentally open when rubbing against a rope or rock. There's another picture of her doing a single rope rappell off of the same grigri May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. While that's scary low since you could absolutely generate that in a pretty normal lead fall, it's still 5x-8x a normal bodyweight 1. Is there a particular carabiner you like to use for the grigri or would any locking carabiner do the job? Non-locking carabiners Do you have any in your kit and if so, what make and model and how/what do you use them for? In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned Clipping the grigri carabiner to another locking carabiner usually allows it to sit flat on flat surfaces. Nov 9, 2023 · According to WeighMyRack's user base the most wanted and owned carabiners are from Edelrid, CAMP, Petzl, Grivel, and Black Diamond. I wouldn't necessarily call those real climbing carabiners on account of how there's no safety device to keep the gate locked. Mar 4, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. But, if it makes you feel better using a specialized carabiner, go ahead. Personalizing Climbing Equipment (GriGri, Carabiners etc. Its out of the ordinary and over the top but makes it super obvious to both of us that the thing is threaded properly. It doesn’t matter what shape biner you use for an anchor, as long as it locks in some way. Nite Ize LSB3-01-R6 S-Biner SlideLock Dual Locking Carabiner, Size #3, Stainless https://a. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Unlocked her without a hand on the brake, fell about 10-15 feet and came to a dead stop. I’d ditch the grigri, hand ascender and foot loop. Jun 10, 2019 · DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. I make one with a 180cm Jun 18, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. All things climbing carabiners demystified! Does anyone have recommendations for carabiners, these are the ones that I am looking at right now. More info on carabiner stock shape here and here. The shape of the FREINO helps resist rotation and bad positioning. Maybe to start lock the carabiner… Dec 13, 2023 · The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability to offer a two-strand rappel. Thanks in anticipation! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Locking (I. But the point is that it does a damn good job at locking up. For climbers looking for a locker to use on gym climbs, top-roping days, or rappelling, the Rocklock is a good choice that won't break the bank. Round stock will be better for the master point to run the rope through because of their lower friction. Also, can the grigri be used for rappelling as well? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A wiredog369 • Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. I do personally love and recommend using a double or triple action auto locking biner for your belay device. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. TL;DR: Buy the Petzl Freino, if you use a GriGri2. Climbers choose the locking carabiners because they ensure that the carabiner will not open unless you do it yourself. Apr 16, 2022 · For GriGri I think the DMM Ceros Locksafe (green gate) is pretty awesome. I think I'd be nice to have auto-locking but have thus far only used screw-gate biners. If you want to use a locking carabiner with an HMS-knot, it’s best to use auto-locking carabiners – otherwise, the knot may unscrew the sleeve of the screwgate. Aug 15, 2019 · It is very common for manufacturers to release the same carabiner design using two or three different styles of locking mechanism, so you can choose which one you like best. Here in the Alps, you can usually find them at the bottom of crevasses, thrown there by mountain guides which took them off their clients for safety reasons. The Plus also gives you a smoother feel so you don’t have to thumb the brake to let out slack, letting you belay the same way you would with a tubular device. But I need someone to recommend me something else as well. Slight detail (and correct me if I’m wrong) but the carabiner gate should be facing left ie away from the right hand moving up and down. I am looking to add a few locking biners to my gear, mostly for critical pieces, anchor building etc. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going cock-eyed and crossloading. It also offers an extra-friction solution for controlling the descent of a heavy user. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. I personally use the BD gridlock and would recommend any HMS biner with a locking feature like the DMM belaymaster. The brake handle has also been updated with an anti-panic locking system. * IMO, it's worth the extra weight (although you'd be perfectly safe using an I-beam carabiner for these purposes). My favorite carabiner for a lanyard is the twist lock Petzl Sm’D. I hear that the grigri petzl is particularly good. Love their pure sliders too, for my PAS and a bomber quickdraw atm. It starts with a Type H or HMS connector designed for dynamic belaying using a Munter Hitch or belay device. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Sep 21, 2023 · A locking climbing carabiner connects a belay device to a belayer’s harness. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? In hindsight, Im not sure why i was so assertive that paliston was uiaa rated besides that i may have looked at a photo of a carabiner i thought was paliston and saw a uiaa label and jumped to conclusions. The twist and open type or two-way lock is to be handled as an non-locker. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of The smart is my favourite belay device. It even saved me from a sketchy rappel in the dark without a rap device at EPC shortly after I installed it. May 7, 2025 · We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. A smaller carabiner is generally less useful than a larger one. Hard to use with one hand. The ones I have are twist-lock rated 24 KN closed. Feb 29, 2024 · Choosing the best belay carabiner is all about the right shape and size to match your device. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 Preferred orientation is to use a small offset d shaped carabiner, not a pear shaped HMS. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. I didn't have a locking biner for my GriGri, so I'm using a keyring. Looking for both big ones for HMS belays, master points etc and a few smaller ones. Its locking gate features a twist-lock mechanism to reduce accidental openings. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Got a used grigri, anything I should look for where it wouldn’t be 100% to use anymore? May 24, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You’ll find a million answers on what works best, but do whatever feels comfortable. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. If you have a climbing shop nearby, it's best to try out the carabiner in person. It is durable, affordable, and with a retail price, presents fantastic value. Obviously there are lots of factors that were unique to my experience, rope, locking carabiner geometry, etc. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. The Mega is often used in anchors and on multipitch belaying top dow. They're made to stay shut in most cases. Each carabiner in this selection combines safety, durability, and innovative design to enhance your climbing experience. Mar 1, 2023 · Top 5 Carabiner for Grigri Reviews 1. Other devices are useful for specific things but for like 99% of situations, a grigri is all around better. If you have a GriGri II, this carabiner fits perfectly, especially if you are on the heavy side and use a thinner rope. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Also you failed to mention that you can double rope rap on a mega jul. co/d/3bFkkAA These are cool, but im guessing he wants whatever 70$ one it is because he thinks that ones cool. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. Aug 15, 2019 · The Black Diamond GridLock Magnetron is a belay specific locker that uses magnetic technology in the gate to create an auto-locking system that is quite a bit different than most standard twist locks. Note: If your gym is pre-rigged with GriGri’s, an offset D locking carabiner is a fine option. Explore our collection of auto-locking carabiners designed specifically for use with the Grigri. Feb 22, 2024 · What's better, screw or auto-locking carabiners? This post dives into when and where to use each style of locking carabiner. The Giga Jul doesn't lock when you are using brand new or treated ropes and it only locks when using very specific types of carabiners. They don’t have to be auto locking, though it’s nice in many scenarios. (This is masterpoint #1) Step 2: The leader takes the rope leading down to the belayer and attaches a Grigri to the belay loop of her harness with a locking carabiner in the usual way. (Note that the ascender is usually for your non-dominant hand; ie, right handed climbers bideally should use a left handed acender. Our team of climbing experts 560 votes, 31 comments. The gate also features a curved extension bar off the 2 HMS locking Carabiners 1x to attach myself to the anchor via clove hitch, 1x if needed for scenarios like redirect lowering a climber on the GriGri/reverso, munter hitches, or rescue scenarios like MMO hitches, belay takeovers, or rappel ascension if I miss bolts (happened once, whoops). Instead put that money towards a hitch climber (two auto locking carabiners, eye to eye, three ring pulley) and then buy a pinto pulley, eye to eye and auto locking carabiner for your lanyard. Pretty much any locking biner works for a grigri because of the low profile attachment point. single and double ropes. ) Do you guys have any ideas on how to personalize climbing equipment? Some of my friends have gotten some of their stuff stolen, so I thought the more blatant it is that it's mine the less likely it will be stolen. With the G+ that can be mitigated. When used together with the Mammut Bionic Carabiner the device doesn't lock. vjg zndzf jvripr dsyi nvazvf fnetds rdnbq eidvxk ohoblqq reuz