Bouldering grades comparison reddit. Hard climb with comparison video between an earlier attempt and the final : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit Super hard v1 at Pump-B Ogikubo in Tokyo. It is a big gap from the perspective of the V10 climber, but is it really a big gap for the V16 climber? With every grade the holds get harder and the techniques coincide with climbing strength, like upside down knee bars. The most commonly used In this article, we will be making a climbing grade comparison between bouldering and sport climbing. I dont even really get the comparison between different areas. font I also from France and uses the same grades so it's a bit confusing but that's just the way it is Just wondering for anyone who climbs at a boulder lab gym in Australia, I know it can be difficult/inaccurate to make grading comparisons, especially because it varies from gym to gym, but what would be the rough comparison from boulder lab's 1-9 rankings compared to the V rankings in America? The colors are nice because they tell you how the free climbing grades roughly correspond to the bouldering grades below. Download UK Trad Grade Conversion Table PDF – Compare UK trad grades with the main international grading systems. Does anyone have anymore that could be added? (disclaimer to say grading can be rly subjective and qualitative so I did the best I could!!) Google "climbing grade conversion chart". Not everyone desires to climb hard. My girlfriend got me into it back in the fall and together we have been TRing 3-4 days a week since then. Of course you're not going to match your indoor peak grade if you get to go on a trip once a year, where you likely don't have as many fresh attempts per problem, are likely to look to climb more rather than hard, and likely don't rest as much or as well between what are typically longer and more intense physical days. What is it with this trend of people posting boulders and asking people to grade them? Jun 5, 2023 · As you read this article, remember that all grades are subjective! Climbing Grades Comparison Chart To help you navigate through the convoluted world of climbing grades, we have put together a climbing grade conversion chart. Get help comparing bouldering, sport, and trad climbing grades. After finding this data, the question immediately popped into my head – is there data that provides evidence that a climber's route climbing grade and bouldering grade are correlated? 43 votes, 132 comments. My point being I don't think soft gym grades are doing a disservice to climbers, if anything I think the fear of outdoor climbing being harder probably inhibits more people from performing better than the soft grades. #2 Lead climbing comps (spoken from my own experience so take it with a grain of salt) are noticeably less competitive than bouldering ones at most levels of competition. Indeed, as there are many climbing styles, many grading systems have emerged throughout climbing history to cover the different types of movement and technologies climbers use to ascend varied terrains like rock, ice, and snow. V is only bouldering, V5 is font 6c+ V6 is font 7a font is the bouldering grading system that's used in Europe a lot, French is for sport climbing. Or climb on a system board with known grade relationships. 12a) sport at my local climbing gym. May 31, 2020 · Everything you need to know about climbing grades in one place. com Jun 5, 2023 · That’s why we have put together this short, no BS, guide on bouldering grades explained. As for bouldering grades, I don't have much of an idea where I'm at. The bouldering activity on the watch is actually pretty good. So go to a shop, try on as may shoes as you can and buy the one that fits your feet best. On a slightly separate point, what this could suggest is that you will benefit from concentrating on more strength training, it’s likely the biggest limiter re bouldering grades and also helps routes. Reply reply 7um4dr3 • 239 votes, 256 comments. ) On the other hand, if you are very comfortable outside you might find indoor climbing much harder (due to lack of friction for shoe scumming, for example) But at the end of the day I would From my point of view it has to do with the age of the reference climbing location. What is the comparison between western climbing grades (i. For this reason I think the comparison is harsh for a lot of people. Climbing grades are opinion, not fact. What scared me about bouldering (dunno if this is the RP grades between sport climbing and bouldering of athletes who do both also would be interesting. Southern Colorado is stiffer than northern Colorado in bouldering grades (Newlin Creek V8 is V9/V10 in RMNP), and Joe's is even softer. You may be visiting different gyms in your area or have tried outdoor climbs and noticed that the grades aren’t as black and white as they seem on paper. Is anyone else in the same If you are using proper technique you are a good climber in my opinion regardless of the difficulty level you climb. :) This sub tends to have more people with a focus on bouldering, the average bouldering grade tends to be a bit high for the sport grade led (compared to crux of sport route). Unfortunately, bordering grades aren’t universal. If you are relatively healthy it's easy to get to the V5 grade but then it becomes harder and harder. In my experience, if you take the gym grade and subtract 2 (+/-1) that pretty accurately pegs 90%+ of the bouldering I've done on real rock (which covers V0-V6/7 outdoor grades all over the country). 11a/6c Here's the thing though, I've never climbed more than like 6b+ (5. Grades, especially gym grades, are relative and set up to encourage new climbers Most gyms don't set a grade harder than V10 or easier than V beginner Different rock climbing grades across the five most popular systems There are a variety of different systems used around the world to define rock climbs grades. As such, the surrounding route development and gym ratings use those progenitor routes as a reference point when grading. g. Sometimes for bouldering or the gym I’ll use a Polar arm-worn HR monitor paired to the Fenix, and have that in my pocket. 469 votes, 211 comments. Rated as 5 “kyuu” (Q) on their system. Just curious about the skill and strength transfer from indoor/board climbing to outdoors. V1, 5. We’ll look at how long it takes to progress through certain bouldering grades and finish off with some tips to Grade systems are almost as old as climbing itself. 5Q translates to V1. Id use outdoor grades to determine for beginner, intermediate, advanced and pro classifications. 11s. General timelines indicate that from bouldering day one, getting to V4 can take a year, V5 two years, V6 three years, and five years to V7. In this article we explain the pros and cons of each! I'd say my gym is soft tho. 12+/13- Gym bouldering grades are notoriously variant especially if the gym is not located near a reasonably well established outdoor bouldering area - which is why many gyms opt to create their own boulder problem rating scale. The quotes in the URL are fucking up reddit's hyperlinking so just copy and paste. Back in the day the London one did give colours grades so I always still think of them like that. (Plus, it's a lot of fun!) That being said, I had a similar nervousness issue, and for the first year and a half of climbing I basically stuck to top-rope too. Even at nationals, the sheer number of competitors is so much higher in bouldering its bound to be more competitive. its super confusing because at certain points the french bouldering and climbing grades are similar, but at both ends they diverge pretty significantly. Feb 2, 2025 · There are significant differences between bouldering and top rope climbing from safety to health and cost. Imo uiaa realistically doesn’t belong here. Done done and done. But then says that rokudan (6 steps from shodan?) is equivalent to V16. And especially until like v6 or above will it get a little easier to grade. But what about technique? As bouldering allows you to make much more tries on a single move and at the same time bouldering is more complex (i am not sure about that) is it better for your technique? On the other side, route climbing allows you to do much more moves but of course Jun 10, 2024 · Grade Converters Bouldering and Lead Climbing Grade converters and other tools for rock climbers. Also, it is natural to have strengths and weaknesses with different types of boulders and climbing, so as your climbing skills progress, you may find that grades feel very inconsistent just due to your own skill imbalance. You can try and see if the climbs are on an app like toplogger, which shows the grades of the individual boulders. I’ve been climbing about a year and a half, however for the past ~5 months I haven’t been going as much as I used to just being busy with school (college student) and work. Mar 30, 2023 · Rock climbing grades Behind the grades: Grades are often debated in climbing because they aim to measure difficulty in objective terms, but the many variables in what makes a climb hard, and who is doing the climbing, make objectivity impossible. 1. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Often you can't judge how hard a move is without actually trying it, because micro changes in a foothold could change how much strength one needs to do the move. 11a) sport grade outside and 7a+ (5. Mar 17, 2023 · Ever wondered how long it takes to progress through the bouldering grades? How long it takes to go from beginner to intermediate grades? How long it takes to get to V3? Or how long it takes to get to V5? This article covers everything you need to know about bouldering progression. Hueco is hard but not sandbagged and technically the standard for bouldering. Sport climbing includes top rope and lead climbing for indoor and outdoor since they both use the North America YDS (Yosemite Decimal System). Feb 9, 2024 · Bouldering grades can either be the bane of your existence or they can push you to climb harder. . 5, etc) and eastern climbing grades? Translating between bouldering and sport grades just doesn't make any sense anymore. I've noticed this general trend at a few gyms and I'm struggling to understand the point. Are bouldering grades colored the same at every gym? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I remember purple being v3-4, Pink v3-5, red v4-5, white v5-v6, yellow v6+. 10s and send/project 5. I think that most can agree that the YDS has gotten softer since its use in grading. I go bouldering at a gym in Norway and this is their grading system. Is the Japanese grading system just stretched out more over the "easy" boulders, and compressed over the harder stuff? Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. There is a study called Bayesian inference of the climbing grade scale which talks about the relation between failed attempts vs sucessful redpoint on a climb using data from thecrag. Bouldering Grades Conversion Chart If you’re looking for a quick comparison chart between the two most popular bouldering grade systems, the V and Font scales, then here it is. The article says the numbering starts at 10-kyu and walks down to shodan (10 steps?), where V7 ~ shodan. I usually boulder one day a week solo as well. 12a on bolts and up to 5. Don't stress about grades. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? 143 votes, 31 comments. I'm definitely the "wreck-your-self-every-day-training" type but the dick measuring contest is only with myself. Lots of falls. And fit is the most important thing about climbing shoes. In general I find outdoor grades to be more consistent within an area and then within a region than gym grades (even on problems within the same gym. I've heard that Pawtuckaway is a grade to a grade-and-a-half softer than northern colorado, so probably two grades softer than southern. I have been climbing for a year, and just recently started climbing those grades somewhat consistently. In bouldering I think the plateau happens in the V5-V6 range (6C+/7A). Using the above comparison scale, it is not surprising to me that you can send 10a, but struggle on V1. I guarantee there will be many people saying "I can boulder this but no way I can climb this grade" Personally, I've bouldered V4 3 different times outside and I actually found myself projecting a short 5. I get that its good to have a reference so you know what you'll have a good shot at sending or whatever, but its never apples to apples. I lead up to 5. The east has much older crags that are more mature and are stiffly rated. 30 votes, 22 comments. Learn about the Yosemite and French grading systems and how the two compare. 11c but it was only 30ft. There is an unhealthy focus/obsession with bouldering grades and the fact is, it doesn’t matter what somebody else’s opinion the grade on your project is. While grades are usually applied fairly consistently across a climbing area, there are often perceived differences between grading at different climbing areas. I've heard that 5. top rope and top rope vs. Confused by the last item about Japanese grading system. Thing I noticed on this sub is that US gym boulders seem to be about 2-3V grades higher ‘rated’ than most similar Font grades in the EU. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? Go climb outside. I consider myself an intermediate climber, not because of the grades but because when I attempt project level things it makes me realize I have so much gap in terms of technique and tactics. How to get upgoats on r/climbing: google image search "climbing grade conversion" post 1st result profit??? Mar 17, 2023 · What are bouldering grades? Simply put, bouldering grades are a made-up system consisting mainly of letters and numbers to measure the difficulty of a boulder problem. Got up to V6 at one point, but injury/inconsistency pulled me back down. The home of Climbing on reddit. Conclusion of the study is that depending on the scale you use the increment between grades is roughly 2-3x failed attemps per grade per succesful attempt. And yes we are scared of falling. Toronto Climbing Gym's: A comparison Hello, I'm fairly new to climbing (4 months now as an adult but climbed as a kid at camp a fair bit) and have been climbing exclusively indoor. Here's your guide for comparing indoor to outdoor bouldering grades. aid climbing equipment is used but only where the equipment is temporary and not permanently hammered into the rock), the most common system is the C-system (e. Honestly the ones graded in that range tend to be dupes of boulders at Pep Boys and other close bouldering areas. Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. Aside from that sticking point though, the biggest thing you can do to overcome your disadvantages as a tall person is get really mobile. The higher the grade, the longer it takes to get to the next one. Bouldering makes you strong. Similar to this one that compared bouldering vs. I think comparing bouldering grades and climbing grades is a mistake anyway because of endurance as a factor. Bouldering grade VS Sport Grade (and what to expect) Stumbled across this article and found it quite useful/interesting as I'm a sport climber who basically uses bouldering as a tool to get stronger. Just curious about how you all feel your climbable grades indoor compare to outdoor. On top of that, some indoor gyms also use their own grading system. that said don't stress to much about grades, every gym will grade climbs differently, even if they use the same scale. Assigning a difficulty to a climb seems to be at least as important as describing it with other characteristic parameters such as length, protection or rock type. Feb 14, 2024 · Learn everything about bouldering grades, including how difficulty is measured and the difference between different grading scales. lead. I went to another gym and I was able to flash two or three 6c+, so grades are bullshit in my opinion. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. Now I saw online comparison charts and they all go like this: 6 kyu is v0 5 kyu is v1 4 kyu is v2 3 kyu is v3 2 kyu is v4 1 kyu is v5 1 dan is v6/7 Etc. Mar 21, 2022 · Most gyms don’t grade their problems to replicate outdoor climbs. See full list on topbouldering. Some people go so far as to straight up call gym climbers weak, as if making some sort of comparison between hiking the Appalachian trail and walking in the local paved park. I cant find any referance to a grading system like that, it might be one they made up for the gym. But I checked this data with lattice MyFingers and it says me finger strength is well above average for my bouldering grade of V7. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. I was wondering for a while now about Japanese grades. Climbing grades are inherently subjective [1] - they are the opinion of one or a few climbers, often the first ascentionist or the author (s) of a guidebook. I only started climbing trad about 5-6 years ago, but the one thing that has helped my head game more than anything is taking falls on my pro. I don't focus on grades because I think harder=better, I just want to improve my climbing. MembersOnline • damnozi ADMIN MOD Remember that time to progress gets more or less exponentially longer as grades go up; not having broken into a new grade for several months doesn't mean you've plateaued, or that you aren't getting better. It's much better for your strength than route climbing. Based off my experience climbing 5 or 6 V grades below my max, I imagine for someone like Daniel Wood the difference between V10 and V11 isn't any much more than the difference between V6 and V7. It takes a few months to get the hang of roped climbing but once you have endurance, you can push into the 11's if V2's and V3s are your bouldering grade. While you will get your normal deviation around a grade, it can feel vastly different between two people. Here you can learn about the different types of bouldering grading systems. In addition, the skill level of the climber has also been included. Currently climbing 7A+ with my first proper 7B done a few weeks back. The harder the route, the higher the grade. Other similarly priced services are available. We recommend Instantprint where an A1 poster costs around £16 (+VAT and delivery). I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. Different regions in the world use different grading systems. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Someone should do a survey of climbers' indoor and outdoor grades and control for variables like years of experience, frequency of climbing, style of climbing, etc. It also showed an example of someone climbing V10 with similar bodyweight-finger strength ratios as me. They grade hard, so their V7s are probably V9-10 in other gyms here in the Atlanta area. C3+). However, with bouldering, I feel so much weaker and still struggle on some V2s and V3s at the bouldering gym. This is just their own numbering, no relation to any grade scale. This comparison chart is for a different sub class of skills. trueI recently started bouldering and have also found it a really effective way to work on technique and problem solving and push my route climbing grades. Learn about climbing and bouldering ratings, including how route difficulty is measured and the difference between a rating and a grade. Reply reply While grades are usually applied fairly consistently across a climbing area, there are often perceived differences between grading at different climbing areas. The responses you'll get may reflect that, if someone boulders V8 problems and is only leading 12- sport of course they will answer that the sport seems less injurious. They usually use the dankyu system like in martial arts, it starts about 10kyu, counts down to 1 kyu, and then it starts going up from 1 dan with 6 dan currently being about v15. The easiest way to gauge improvement is by relative comparison but if the comparison is between two subjective numbers then it's meaningless. In this beginners guide, we go over everything that goes into bouldering grades and what you need to know. The more I browse bouldering content online the more I come across the “You’re a (insert grade) climber, but are they indoor or outdoor boulders?” conversations. I know there are conversion tables online, but I’d like to sample r/climbharder on what your highest boulder and rope climb grade is (outdoor or indoor). It really doesn’t matter more than the personal effort and achievement you as an individual felt. Imagine traveling overseas to climb and you find a guidebook with a different grading system than you’ve never used! Instead of picking out a boulder based on if you think it’ll be a warmup, familiarise yourself with the differences in bouldering grades and how they convert to each other. If you are not quite sure and curious to know more about bouldering, sport climbing, or any of the terminologies above, please visit my following Depends on the gym, and how comfortable you are outside. You select your climbing grade and press start, so you can log what you climb. 11a on gear. Download Bouldering Grade PDF – Comparison between Font, V and UK tech grades. Mar 9, 2023 · Once you reach the top end of the intermediate grades, you’ll begin to start tackling some difficult challenges. Jan 28, 2022 · Climbing grades describe the objective difficulty of a climb and are organized into grading systems based on the climbing style and the region. This will help you compare and convert across some of the most popular grading systems. Somebody makes this comparison every few months, but it always suffers when it's one climber musing on other climbers' subjective experiences. Wonder what other people think. Grade systems initially developed in confined geographical areas, making the comparison of climbs somewhat easier, developed over time and were and are constantly extended as Climbing shoes have wildly differing shapes. Mar 25, 2024 · Learn how to convert climbing grades, common challenges, and resources for accurate conversions. #1 v4 is approximately equivalent to 11d if you are comparing the hueco and yds scales. Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. If you could just post that jazz in the comments below, that would be much appreciated! I am not sure tbh, I climb at a relatively high grade level in sport climbing and yet I am way below that level in bouldering. V8 <--> 5. Sound about right? Or abit above or below where you'd expect? What are you guys managing around this grade? Edit: I am talking bouldering grades. e. Oct 12, 2020 · Wondering how climbs are graded by setters? Or maybe you want to learn what V means in bouldering. Because the F7 has touch screen it’s really easy to scroll and save climbing Does anyone know what's the grade comparison between Tension Board, indoor, and outdoor? : r/bouldering r/bouldering Current search is within r/bouldering Remove r/bouldering filter and expand search to all of Reddit Sep 16, 2021 · Everything you ever wanted to know about bouldering grades in one place, including a bouldering grade conversion chart from the V Scale to Font Scale. Few recreational climbers will reach V8. Here's a bouldering-to-climbing conversion chart. Ok so one for sure is true. Look at it positively, you might try climbs that you would've otherwise never jumped on. on the other hand, i think the french system, which is more holistic, reflects actual climbing performance for a particular bouldering grade better than the US system As in if you can climb V4/6c (font) you are probably around the 5. Aid climbing grades take time to stabilize as successive repeats of aid climbing routes can materially reduce the grade. I think it's pretty common to have a large discrepancy between your trad and sport grades. Because of these variables, a given climber might find a route to be either easier or more difficult than expected for the grade applied. 7A+/7B V7/V8, if it wasn't clear. Makes sense why Japanese climbers are so good… Feb 21, 2025 · Discover the differences between bouldering and top rope climbing, including safety, physical and mental challenge, cost, and social aspects. com. your best bet will be to ask the gym staff, they might be able to point you in the right direction. On another note, why does everyone want to convert V grades to YDS? I've never understood that. Talking about the hardest boulder in such a route-- in the context of the rest of the route-- does make sense (but doesn't fit in a 1:1 reference (see linked charts below). Has Outdoor climbing grades (like gym grades) vary, but folks tend to annotate and write up fewer easy boulders, so outdoor boulder grades trend harder than indoor ones, even comparing local gyms to boulders. 13 use to be Uiaa has nothing to do with advanced bouldering or sport climbing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Below you will find a table that compares the different climbing grades across the five most popular systems. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I compiled some bouldering-specific grading charts, cos on the internet there's loads for climbing but none for bouldering grades. Ultimately though, grades shouldn’t define your skills but rather be used as a way to get systematically more skilled at the sport. To push beyond the V6 grade requires a lot more technique, power and finger strength which is, I think, why many people are struggling with that. Hard crimp boulders often require pushing down with one hand while pulling with another, or wide outside the shoulder strength, or messed up inside the shoulder crosses. I definitely prefer top roping, and can flash some 5. Maybe with filters only including more than 10 in either discipline in the last 2 years or so. Reply Apr 26, 2021 · This data includes most user's logged routes, as well as related information such as grade, style of ascent, etc. Find out how to convert the V scale and more here. I thought I might be around V7 as I spent my first ever session on a moon board last week and climbed a few 6c+ (V5) but didn't manage any v6. For comparison, I've been climbing for ~4 years now (mostly but not solely indoor bouldering), and I consistently hang around the V4 range. For "clean aid climbing" (i. sgbxz ecmape kjmbzu frk kchj ttorf xplq zkfd owhoh newc