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Olympic bouldering comp reddit.
Hi there SpecialGuy4Ever.
Olympic bouldering comp reddit. You hear the commentators talk about this absolutely incredible climber named Ondra, and then you watch him get absolutely creamed in speed because he just doesn't give a shit about it. From May 3-5, beautiful Salt Lake City, Utah plays host to bouldering and speed World Cups, followed by a paraclimbing WC on the 7th and 8th. Aug 4, 2024 · It’s only been used a few times at Paris Olympic-qualifying competitions such as the World Championships last summer, the continental qualifier events, and the Olympic Qualifier Series. Speed climbing is an entirely different sport, and if they’re going to add it to the Olympics then the best speed climbers in the world deserve to showcase their talents. Sure there are often power problems that require you to pull V10 or 11 moves, but in general the problems go ungraded. The women’s bouldering round seems like it was pretty well set – although perhaps too easy for the top 2–3 climbers, looking at the rest of the field shows that if the round was made more difficult, we wouldn’t see much progress from the rest of the climbers. Its hype. I have done commentary for World Cups, Para Climbing, US and Canadian National Championships and more than a decade of other competitions in Canada and internationally. Beginners also aren’t really climbing outside where v2 sit starts exist. First selected as one of the discretionary sports at the 2020 and 2024 games, sport climbing will be inducted as one of the mandatory sports at the 2028 games. I don't know why they can't enlarge the field if the Olympic committee want A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. Hey r/climbing - This is a film I have been working on for the last two+ years. A lot of the arguments against this ridiculous format seem to have a tone of “speed climbing isn’t real climbing” underneath the surface, but your point is a great one. What grade do you guys think this would realistically be? Olympics Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options ExdigguserPies • We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. If you have missed the likes of Janja, Ai Mori or Jakob Schubert while watching the OQS, then this is the 3rd boulder in olympic finals looked great, sucked otherwise. A comprehensive subreddit for all things competitive climbing. Beginners are also usually climbing near vertical walls with an abundance of holds which is much easier for taller people to lank through without penalty. Archery? Badminton? Most sports have fairly niche appeal, even things like track & field and swimming. Jul 17, 2024 · How Combined Boulder & Lead Sport Climbing event works On Monday, August 5, 68 climbers will begin vying for medals at the Paris Olympics, competing in two separate disciplines. One commentator even mentioned that this was his first time casting for a climbing comp and it really shows. Imagine watching climbing for the first time in your life because hey that's what's on for the Olympics right now. I think for Climbing to peak as a sport, you 291 votes, 80 comments. I have some questions regarding progression and training and things like that. Reddit – It’s your favorite Sport Climbers – Nathaniel Coleman, Kyra Condie and Colin Duffy coming to hang out with you Thurs. Not everyone publicly announces retirement. If 2nd place gets 45 then they will get 90 points. The best comp climbers are well rounded, and can execute slab, crazy comp parkour moves, compression, and nails crimping. It evolved naturally from outdoor rock climbing, beginning sometime in the 80s, and with the first World Championship taking place in 1991. We talked about stress, finger-injuries, and her friendship with USA's Brooke Raboutou. The home of Climbing on reddit. AMA! : r/CompetitionClimbing TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity Go to CompetitionClimbing r/CompetitionClimbing r/CompetitionClimbing Aug 5, 2024 · These 12 climbing shoes will be used by Olympic Sport Climbing athletes. He's made many many lead finals (and podiums) and he's not terrible in comp bouldering either. Auto-berth athletes (as I described earlier). Official Sport Climbing results from the Paris 2024 Olympics. Lots of sports have had the occasional "Battle of the Sexes" events. Obviously this is all just pure for-fun speculation and the predictions are just my personal opinions/takes. Hi there SpecialGuy4Ever. And if comp climbing can get you there, then by all means start getting into it. Climbing at the 2024 Olympics had speed climbing as a standalone event, although lead and boulder are still a combined event. If anything, I find comp climbing (and training for it) excellent for helping me identify my lingering deficiencies and burgeoning advances. climbing) • Instagram photos and videos - A recently created instagram page that closely tracks ongoing proceedings for all 3 disciplines and provides concise and clear information regarding a multitude of things such as daily updates during ongoing World Cups, season rankings, OQS info and upcoming Olympics. Some sports also have an open category where both men and women can enter to compete. May 13 at 1 pm ET for the Olympic and Paralympic Ask Me Anything Reddit Series. There's very little marketing in this sport, if at all. Reply reply More replies more replies more replies More replies more replies more replies More replies TheInternetShill • Climbing for taller people is easier for beginners because strength doesn’t become an issue until far later on. Incredible showing by China’s athletes. Tonde Katiyo, a setter for these things likes to use a three aspect system to talk about a climbs difficulty. Hello. For more details: It's very hard to determine grades for the world cup problems because they tend to be trickier more than physically hard. The reach of his channel leads to conversations like "why isn't Magnus trying for the Olympics" which are as laughable as "why isn't Honnold trying for the Olympics?" His content is designed to generate traffic. Then comment away in the live chats and post-game discussion threads!** From June 24-30, beautiful Innsbruck hosts paraclimbing, bouldering and lead World Cups. Janja showed she's in a class of her own, especially when it comes to bouldering. Athletes compete in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing. Multiplication of rankings, really, I mean who the f**k even think of that? 2 people per country for an individual sport is just a joke. Full list of gold, silver and bronze medallists as well as photos and videos of medal-winning moments. To be honest, I think the general public would be quite happy to watch climbing during the Olympics - and would News about 2024 Paris Olympics; two climbing categories, 3 medals for speed and 3 medals for sport/boulder combined, nearly double the athletes invited I'm genuinely surprised that Stefano has no interest in the Olympics. Because we have a lot of deleted posts on this subreddit, here is a backup of the title and body of this post: Confused by Olympic qualifiers Can somebody explain a bit on what it takes to get an Olympic ticket through the Olympic qualifiers that just finished? Finally, is there a cap for how many people can compete per country? Meaning that for example for Japan Aug 10, 2024 · With a new format, this promises to be even more exciting – here are the 2024 Olympic sport climbing TV channels, broadcasters and free streams. the reasoning is because climbing is such a new Olympic sport, and the IFSC is still working toward getting 3 medals allotted so that each discipline can have it's own medal. For me, thats not awesome climbing content. In Conclusion Competition climbing is still fundamentally climbing, and its inclusion as an olympic sport benefits almost every practitioner of the sport in some form regardless of one's chosen discipline. Have I got enough time to become adequate enough to compete? I know some climbers like Ai Mori were winning Japanese nationals at 12 As possibly the most exciting competition in the history of sport climbing so far (a separated B&L Olympic event) is now three months away, I did a little Olympics prediction and analysis based on the current top 10 women's B&L athletes according to official IFSC rankings. The first event of the IFSC season is upon us! The Hachioji Bouldering WC takes place April 21st-23rd. The top male competitors are able to flash V14 boulders outdoors, and comp climbing is fundamentally a game of flashing hard climbs. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. Jul 29, 2021 · As climbing teeters on the cusp of its Olympic debut, competition climbing shoes have evolved at an unprecedented rate in the buildup to the games. Yah, modern comp bouldering interests me just a touch more than speed climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Flair up! I was really excited to see this article, expecting some crazy intense regimen of strength, endurance, and comp boulder training, but surprisingly Megos' training right now is mostly just 15 hours of Kilter/Tension board and spray wall climbing per week. Here are the men's Sport Climbing semifinal results. **Please make sure to use SPOILER TAGS in this thread for broadcasted rounds. Most comps have every hold and move type in them, so becoming a well rounded climber is very important for doing well. They are: risk, intensity and complexity. Sport climbing is a relatively new event. com https://touchstoneclimbing. Modern comp Climbing has evolved way past “normal” rock climbing. They are similar enough where Janja Garnbret for example would be favourite to win both bouldering and lead even if they were separate. For those with a good handle on the general OQS rules, see the OQS Point System for how results in Shanghai might translate to an Olympic slot. Figured I would see if people are interested in far too early and far too uninformed speculation on who will qualify for the 2024 Olympics in climbing. In 2016 the International Olympic Committee (IOC) voted to include it in the Olympics and Sport Climbing made its Olympic debut during In a place like the US all the money and kudos in climbing are in outdoor ascents, and if you want to compete in World Cup events you're basically on your own (which may change now that climbing is an Olympic sport). Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret, who rocketed to a gold medal at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, will again be predicted by many as the probable Olympic champion. Competition climbing was first featured at the 2020 Summer Olympics in a once-off single combined format per gender, with the results based on a combination of lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing performances. I really hope the both lead and bouldering have a mid- to semi hard or even hard setting rather than easy Reply reply WillWorkForSugar • wydm that brooke lacks consistency? you'd have to go back to 2022 to find a comp she wasn't top 5 in Reply reply More repliesMore replies Annanascomosus • This visualization shows the results of the climbing competition of the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo and compares the actual final rank of athletes with the rank they would have obtained using the current scoring calculations for climbing (which will be used at the 2024 Olympics in Paris). I take my shoes off after a pitch or boulder problem. It's also worth looking for local gym competitions that you can join, especially those that are based on in-network Retiring after OQS/Olympics? I’ve been mulling over what other athletes might retiree from international comp climbing after their bid for the Olympics or Olympic run are complete. Yufei looks like he will qualify for another Olympics while basically disappearing in the World Cups/ Championship. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Does anyone know how much it is for each place? Does it vary from comp to comp? Thanks! The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. Inside Climbing (@inside. The general public is bored by nearly every event in the Olympics during non-Olympic years. 3. The combined boulder and lead scoring system is an outgrowth of that and wasn't built to enhance the individual disciplines. , with Alex. 1K votes, 117 comments. ELI5: Why do people still call Adam Ondra "the best climber" if Janja keeps winning almost every comp and also crushes outdoors? Speed Climbing: Athletes climb a standardized wall in a 1 on 1 race format. I know little about speed climbing (not that I am an expert in any other sort of climbing either) so I won't comment but feel free to add that in if you do as I would be interested to learn more. Janja is the undisputed GOAT of comp climbing right now for good reason! Brooke looked like she was going to burst into tears after falling. They are different events, however climbing is young in its Olympic journey and there is a lot of crossover in terms of competitors. Our first chance to see lots of strong athletes who decided to skip out on the Chinese stops, I know I can't wait! Schedule: May 3: 09:00 Boulder Qualis (not streamed) May 4: 10:00 Men’s Boulder Semis 15:00 Speed Qualis 18:00 Men’s Boulder Final 20: Jul 22, 2024 · If you’ve paid any attention to the comp climbing scene in the last few years, you know there are some heavy favorites in the women’s Combined (Boulder and Lead) event at the Olympics. What about climbing? Looking at speed climbing, the men's records are significantly better than the women's, so maybe men vs women won't be competitive in that discipline, but what about lead and bouldering? If we take the two Olympic 310 votes, 177 comments. This year, the priority is Athletes eligible for the IFSC Climbing World Championships (the first Olympic qualifying event) / 2023 Asian Games in Hangzhou (the continental Olympic qualifying event). What a well deserved podium. . She competed in the Tokyo Olympics in 2021 and won two overall world cups in 2016 and 2017 besides being the first british woman to climb V12, V13 and V14 boulders. 1K votes, 130 comments. In this article, let’s dive into how the Boulder & Lead Combined event is being scored at the Paris Olympics. Shoutout to Miroslaw for making the best of her chances and nearly getting a medal, too. You seem to value crack climbing comfort which requires a flatter foot. One of the shittest moment of comp climbing: Lucka performed better all night, Mia touched one more hold in the lead, then Mia went to Tokyo Not to mention they are best friends. As a result the International Federation of Sport Climbing decided the best way to showcase the sport in its entirety was through the combined format. 203 votes, 37 comments. We’re super excited to be one of the brand new sports this summer headed to Tokyo! 619 votes, 549 comments. It seems like the people strongest in Lead and Bouldering will get the combined win, and Janja is a dominant boulderer, so keenly watched for Olympic Gold! Why do lead climbing comps (IFSC, olympics) allow only one attempt? I'm just curious as to what exactly are the reasons for allowing only one attempt in lead climbing. So if the highest climber gets a 50, then they will be given 100 points. Overall, his chances for the Olympics are very similar to those of Alex Megos imo. Individual discussion threads will be posted (10 minutes?) before the scheduled start times. Alannah Yip and Petra Klinger have both publicly posted about it. com/tcs-comp-series/ touchstone gyms host super super informal/low stakes comps but maybe better than nothing at the moment. Dedicated to increasing all our… Couldn’t quite read the oversized checks at the Brixen comp. com don't know if it applies to eurosport too but on olympic channel you easily get spoiled with the results while trying to find the replay you are looking for. It's about four climbers and their journey to competing in the first ever Olympic Climbing comp in Tokyo. Melbourne, Australia hosts combined and speed athletes from Australia, New Zealand, and Guam in their quest to qualify for the 2024 Olympics. In the combined, the lead score will also be normalised a score of 100 as well. 4K votes, 195 comments. You could tell they were just reading off from a facts sheet about each of the athletes. And yes we are scared of falling. 264 votes, 34 comments. I would rather watch the worlds strongest boulderers fight to match a horendous sloper, or do dynamic moves on razor crimps, than watch another 2 hand kangaroo hop toe hook boom boom that has never been done on a real piece of rock. Men are generally stronger (even by body weight) and have more fast twitch muscle fibers giving them a natural advantage over women in the modern, dynamic, comp style problems. Bouldering: Athletes climb on 3 Boulder problems. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I think ifsc climbing instagram page and the live Olympic broadcast I guess, they post information really badly — nothing in advance, but it’s at least something. This will be determined after the details for qualification for world champs is released. I appreciated Matt's generosity in explaining some of the quirks of current comp climbing trends, etc. Bouldering is 25 points max per boulder and 4 boulders, therefore out of 100 points overall. Hi, I'm Pete Woods , climbing commentator and MC. Climbing is in the Olympics for the first time in 2020, but includes three different types of climbing rolled into a combined event. Jun 30, 2025 · CLIMBING COMPETITION DATES AND VENUE CONFIRMED FOR OLYMPIC GAMES LA28 16 July 2025 Four days in Shanghai will feature the first of two events to determine who fills the open Olympics spots - 12 slots per gender for Boulder & Lead and 7 slots per gender for Speed! Inside Climbing has a thorough preview of rules, slot allocation, etc. Certainly not enough to warrant him being brought up in this thread. Something like this in a headline "Schubert wins men's lead finals in Briancon". 7K subscribers in the CompetitionClimbing community. Aug 26, 2024 · Janja Garnbret just won her 2nd Olympic Gold. How do people do this?). Regarding 6 and 7. For those not in the know, I would just add that the IOC only gave sport climbing 1 medal for each of men and women, despite there being 3 distinct disciplines in climbing. 1. However, these things garner considerable attention by non-fans during the Games. Be great to know what you think. Climbing geek kinda sells Shauna Coxsey short. Nowadays, there’s all these huge volumes, parkour style jumping, and vey forced, difficult beta. To get the comments out of the way early: this Aug 10, 2024 · An epic Bouldering final in Women's Olympic Sport Climbing sets us up for a big showdown in Lead later this morning. 174K subscribers in the climbharder community. Climbing is inherently individual and diverse enough to cater to almost everyone in accordance with one's desired experience from the sport. Korea should have at least one athlete in each competition but they struggled more than expected in this comp. Janja Garnbret clinches double Olympic gold in Boulder & Lead at Paris 2024, defeating Brooke Raboutou and Jessica Pilz. I do hope she can bounce back in future years and possibly make Janja sweat (I mean I assume Janja isn’t just a climbing cyborg!) Aug 9, 2024 · After a tumultuous lead round, Friday's final will be a mix of favorites and upstarts. Title is self explanatory; I haven't found a good way to watch specific events at the Olympics and was wondering if anyone did. 219 votes, 145 comments. I think if you're a boulderer / lead climber, it's probably easier to dedicate some time to learn the single beta for speed climbing than it is for a speed climber to learn bouldering problem solving on the clock and building long-term endurance to do hard comp lead routes. Pretty sure most Olympic climbers could project a 13/14 but getting a hard route in a 5 minute session (including Climbing has been upgraded to a core sport-- it is in the Olympics for the foreseeable future (along with skateboarding and surfing, blech). This women's competition was really the best possible outcome for this weird and controversial combined format. Or just not try to qualify for their team. I am 14 and it's my dream career to become a competitive climber. Mar 4, 2023 · The Team Trials selected the elite squad that represent the USA at IFSC’s events, with the eventual goal of qualifying for the Paris 2024 Olympics. Olympics. The remaining 28 (14 women, 14 men) will compete in the Speed discipline. I have been bouldering for around 6 months now and can confidently climb V5, my current goal is to reach V8. Lead Climbing: Athletes climb a lead climbing wall, which We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Its cool though, sports change, but after 15 years of climbing and having bouldered Up now is the Oceania Continental Olympic Qualifier. Here we talk about why they’re good, and which athletes like them. And Akiyo gets a medal in her last ever comp before retiring. Here, the goal is to get to the so called Zone, and Top of a boulder in as few attempts as possible. Perfect. Reply reply A setter in the UK told me around V10/11 but they make specific comp problems which are more prone to failed attempts and require better route reading, its less about finishing the route and getting it in as few amount of fails as possible; or even getting it as fast as possible. 40 of them (20 women, 20 men) will compete in the Combined Boulder & Lead discipline. 176 votes, 86 comments. Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’m relatively new to the Climbing world (only been Climbing 2 years) but if you watch old comp vids, it’s a lot of pulling really hard on small crimps and bad holds. Competition climbing has been held at two editions of the Summer Olympic Games. Climbing is too small of a sport now, the top top climbers don't even have 1 million followers on Instagram, World Cup (qualification) tickets are as cheap as a local competition, Nathaniel Coleman (an Olympic medalist) has only 40 people watching his Twitch stream, etc etc. The sizing chart someone else posted accounts for 4 different fits people prefer when climbing. Yes it's to do with the Olympic / combined scoring. I'm super hype for climbing to debut but after watching other coverage of the games (USA) I have really low expectations for the networks. I mostly face climb or boulder, and curled toes let me climb a grade or so harder in those styles. Lots of strong athletes are registered to compete. 835 votes, 139 comments. I think most people within the world of comp climbing still prefer the regular boulder system 2. Boulder Problems are typically less than 4,5 meters tall and athletes are protected by mats below the boulders. Have a higher chance of winning the Olympics/ are better comp climbers compared to: Sean Bailey (USA) Ogata Yoshiyuki (JPN) & Brooke Raboutou (USA) Miho Nonaka (JPN) ??? Some of the best climbers in the history of the world will be watching at home on the couch as no names get their butts kicked by Janja and Tomoa… Truthfully sad to see. vhvpagbrmxpocbcrvelrbxosuiunohxrflromoozblhuypy